A Day Visit to Durnstein & Melk, Austria
We are on 2 back-to-back river cruises on the Scenic Crystal (duration 4 weeks) cruising the Danube River, Rhine River and other European waterways from Bucharest to Amsterdam. We occupy a Royal Balcony Suite mid-ship: a stateroom beautifully appointed, very spacious for a riverboat domicile, with own butler, immaculately clean and tidy and continuously refreshed with beverages and snacks…. This is the way to travel😊
Power walk in Durnstein
It’s 5.30 am and we’re already moored. It’s quite windy outside and chilly but determined to put in an hour’s power walk along the Danube’s riverbank.
Wind aside, it was a peaceful early Sunday morning. I had the riverbank all to myself despite it being alongside a main road and I easily lost myself in thoughts about our grandchildren and their future (as any Nannu will do). I do sometimes “wish” them growing up way too fast and I tend to forget Nanna’s words to “let the children have their childhood”.
As I start my walk, I look back at our riverboat Scenic Crystal. It really is an impressive floating holiday home. It pleases us no end to know that this boat is part of the world-renowned tourism company and its Australian!
Whilst I concentrated on the path, I continuously looked around my surroundings. The rushing Danube is majestic, the trees along parts of the bank appear to be paying tribute to this regal waterway. Early morning birds forage unhindered and in the distant, acres and acres of vineyards are seeking to bud. The sky is clear of cloud, early morning sun is warming, the air crisp, the grass around me is verdant and all are back-dropped by imposing rock faces standing as sentinels over a wondrous domain. Scattered housing along the banks are visible (some with chimneys whisking smoke). I walk by a bakery and it takes all of my willpower not to succumb to the wafting aromas!
Overall, general quiet and peace envelopes my power walk…. I had the place all to myself….so easy to lose track of time😊.
Durnstein, Austria
After breakfast (which incidentally we take in our stateroom so as to avoid over-indulgences…haha), we walked to the town of Durnstein. The town itself is only a few hundred meters away.
What a gem of a place. It is a charming and well-preserved town. Its traffic-free with an almost “fairy-tale” visage. The cobblestone streets, the narrow alleys, the winding stairs and the hidden passages (which remind me of my motherland) taking us from one street to another or one level to another are a delight to explore.
Historic Durnstein is in lower Austria (that’s Austria! …. they don’t have kangaroos here😊). The town’s name literally means “dry castle” in German, presumably after the stone castle situated high above the main town area.
It is said that in 1192 AD, in the castle above the town, King Richard I of England (known also as Richard the Lionhearted) was held captive by Leopold V (the Virtuous) , Duke of Austria after their dispute during the Third Crusade. It is said that Richard the Lionhearted had offended Leopold the Virtuous (clearly not so virtuous) by casting down his standard from the walls at the Battle of Acre, and the duke also suspected that King Richard ordered the murder of his cousin Conrad of Montferrat in Jerusalem. In consequence Pope Celestine III excommunicated Leopold for capturing a fellow crusader. Naturally, the myth/legend/story has lived on and created a life of its own as evidenced by the multitude of tourists climbing all over the crumbling castle and many movies around “Richard the Lionhearted”.
The Abbey, Durnstein
We visited the main church of this town. It’s clearly visible with its blue & white and ornate steeple. It’s dedicated to the Virgin Mary’s Assumption. We ventured inside and happened on a Sunday service about to commence so we lingered a while and listened (though we couldn’t understand the language). The singing was beautiful. As for the interior, it oozes “work of art”. Would have liked to visit the church’s Picture Gallery however, we didn’t have a couple of hours to spare as the rest of the town beckoned to be explored.
One of the “landmarks” of this little town that captured me “spiritually” was the “Circle of Life” in the middle of a little square leading into the Abbey. The circle itself was divided into 4 quarters. Each quarter was yet again divided into another 4 quarters. First quarter was Fire, Water, Air & Earth. Second quarter was America, Africa, Europe & Asia (note that Australia is included in Asia!). Third quarter was Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. Fourth quarter was Morning, Noon, Evening & Night. All bore reflecting on and while I was reflecting on them all, I listened to the church bells toll sacredly.
I am no longer a spiritually imbued person but given time and a peaceful quite environment, one can’t help but reflect deeply on the components of the “Circle of Life”. In most instances, it will make one feel entirely fortunate just being alive.
Roaming Durnstein
The town of Durnstein is a living example of a town which has been meticulously restored, lovingly maintained and proudly displayed.
We spent a couple of hours visiting the many shops which thankfully being Sunday were devoid of larger crowds yet most were open (commerce is a universal language😊). The variety was considerable and included worthwhile souvenirs, WOW chocolates, cafes with deliciously wafting aromas, wine and apricot brandy tasting (yes Sunday morning😊!).
In parts, the town offered incredibly beautiful views of the surrounding Danube (which to me, its water was running quite fast), the clinging vineyards and the ever-present remnants of a castle past abandoned.
Back at Scenic Crystal
Back at the boat, we spent the early afternoon hours enjoying the passing scenery in what is known as the Wachau Valley as we cruised between Durnstein and Melk.We were seated with friends near a window adjacent to the bar whilst excellent barman Miko, continuously refreshed our drinks😊
Both sides of the Danube are totally picturesque and are lined with waterfront towns and homes, orchards (especially apricot which are a specialty of the region) and in some areas, high forested river walls.
But what we found totally immersing was the number of castles perched at various heights on either river bank….some appearing in “good nick” whilst others looking in need of repair.
Benedictine Abbey, Melk
In late-afternoon we arrived at Melk and the awaited visit to the Benedictine Abbey perched high on a rocky hill above the Danube. This abbey occupies a massive footprint and on average, plays host to 3,000 visitors daily! It is one of the biggest and most beautiful European Baroque ensembles. Its splendid architecture is famous worldwide and part of UNESCO’s world cultural heritage. The abbey was founded in 1089 when the Emperor of Austria, Leopold II gave this castle to the Benedictine Monks.
The visit included taking in the Imperial Staircase, the Imperial Corridor, the Abbey Museum, the Marble Hall, the Balcony, the Library and the Abbey Church as well as the Abbey Park with its Baroque Pavilion and the Northern Bastion.
Afterwards, Nanna and I decided to walk down to the boat. It was a 30-minute walk which took us into the township of Melk and in some respects, it was similar to Durnstein.
It’s been another wonderful day. Durnstein in particular prised images of a fairy tale town whereas Melk came across as a “big brother” to Durnstein. We would love to come back and spend an extra day or two. There’s ample hotel accommodation…. RECOMMEND
