A Visit to St John’s Co-Cathedral, Valletta
We are in Malta for a couple of weeks and staying in a Valletta Suite at the Phoenicia Hotel in Valletta. This morning’s power walk was similar to one over the past few days in that we traced the outskirts of walled city of the Knights. It was most invigorating and pleasant.
Phoenicia Hotel
While breakfasting at the Phoenicia Hotel as per usual, one of the waitresses was overjoyed that Nanna and I could still speak Maltese fluently after all the years of living away from the motherland. In fact, she called over her manager and we chatted for a while. We felt good about this as we were told that 99% of the hotel’s clientele ARE NOT Maltese so they don’t speak our native tongue. Incidentally, the breakfast buffet at the Phoenicia is simply amazing, stretching from the rustic to fine fare. Dare I say that one needs considerable self-control not to over indulge!
The Triton Fountain, Valletta
After breakfast we headed over to visit the Malta Crafts Easter Fair, a modest footprint of about 25 stalls however Nanna did manage to buy our granddaughters some jewellery items. Leaving the hotel, we crossed the large and refurbished (and ongoing) piazza leading into the city of Valletta. The piazza is usually in constant motion as people traverse from all angles, going into or out of the walled city (keep in mind that we’re here in April….end of winter….which is usually still cold and wet at times). The piazza itself is surrounded by manicured gardens (starting to Spring bloom) and restored fortifications. In the process we passed by the famous and fully restored Triton Fountain which is a focal point and national landmark. Might I add that it’s simply a magnificent view at night time from our suite😊
St John’s Co-Cathedral, Valletta
We bought tickets to go into St Johns Co-Cathedral, one of Malta’s most popular tourist attractions. We visited here about for 3-4 hours. Fortunately, not many visitors about given that we’re here in April….
On entry we were handed audios and asked what language we wished and I said “ouchee” …. Some attendants laughed, others looked bewildered and still others, well it simply went over their heads (for the uninitiated, there are two main islands comprising Malta: Malta and Gozo. The name Gozo in Maltese is “Ghawdex” and the dialect of Gozo is “Ghawdxi” and or phonetically pronounced “ouchee” …. both islands speak the same language of course despite the parochialism on either island).
We hadn’t been into this cathedral since 1992!!! which is almost shameful of us given that we’re in Malta nearly every year. Anyway, we enter this magnificent example of Baroque architecture. Wonderfully ornate showpiece of the Knights of Malta. It was commissioned initially by Grand Master Jean de la Cassière. Basically, it consists of the main and large middle section with its principal altar dedicated to St John the Baptist. There are 4 chapels on each side of this main part representing the 8 tongues/languages of the Order of Knights of Malta with the most of prominent of these tongues/languages being the closest to the main altar.
The cathedral was built after Birgu was destroyed by the attempted Ottoman invasion during the Great Siege of 1565.
There are far too many appealing things to mention but will address what I consider as the main ones. The sacristy is massive, being about 5-6 times the size of any sacristy I knew as an altar boy.
A lot of the paintings are the work of Maltese artist Stefano Erati.
Many of the paintings represent battles (both naval and land) by the Knights and they heavily incorporate “heavenly assistance” in the battles as Knights are victorious on their way into heaven.
We saw one marble sculpture (of a later Grand Master) who was at the forefront of the Battle of Dardanelles which along with the Great Siege, ensured that Islam didn’t invade and conquer Southern Europe.
Yet another marble sculpture dedicated to the brother of King Louis Phillipe of France who died in Malta and is buried in the cathedral.
Of significant importance is the Order’s Holy and “saintly relics” which are housed in the Chapel of the Anglo-Bavarian Langue. This was most important to the Knights as these relics represented the physical presence of the sacrifices and hardships the Knights endured.
This cathedral is arguably the most important “Knights of Malta related” cultural gem on the Maltese islands. The ornate marble floors housing the remains of significant Knights are an exercise in masterful “marble parquetry” and elevating the interned Knight to “reverence”. Truly a wonder to behold….so much history!
Incidentally, the 9th AND central chapel in this cathedral is dedicated to Our Lady of Philermos (and the altar contains a relic of hers) who along with St John the Baptist are the patron saints of the Knights of Malta.
Grand Master Jean la Valette
Grand Master Jean la Valette is buried in the crypt below the cathedral and profoundly, the Order has inscribed on the marble adorning his tomb: “Here lies a man! for he was the shield of the people and the destroyer of the enemy”. The inscription was composed by Sir Oliver Starkey and designed to encapsulate the eternal character traits lived by this most illustrious Grand Master (Sir Oliver also a Knight of the Order).
La Valette was a French nobleman and he was the 49th Grandmaster of the Order but by far, he is the most renowned and revered by the Maltese people. Interesting tidbit: la Valette was offered a Cardinalship by the Pope following his success at the Great Siege…. given his modesty and humility, he refused. La Valette was 76 years old when he passed away.
Mattia Pretti & Caravaggio
Another couple of interesting items include that Mattia Pretti is the most prominent artist (or influencing painter and influencing style) throughout all the paintings of this cathedral.
The vaulted ceilings are biblical in context, magnificent in their display and wonderfully artistic. The amount of gold adorning this cathedral is equal to any other European church.
The other is that Grand Master Pinto was the most flamboyant Grand Master of all and included proclaiming himself as the Prince of Malta!!….
Little wonder then that the Knights of Malta, as an Order, deteriorated and were subsequently defeated by Napoleon without a fight in 1798!!!
Perhaps the “piece de resistance” on touring this cathedral was our viewing of the two Caravaggio’s masterpieces including the only one he ever signed: the beheading of St John.
Caravaggio was arguably revered as the “second Michelangelo”. He was a brilliant painter but sadly, led a troubled and short life (he died when 39 years old). He is said to have been an aggressive and at times brutal man and on reflecting on his paintings, one can perhaps see such cruelty and viciousness coming through.
Overall, Nanna and I truly enjoyed the tour, “studying the paintings” and taking in the history of our beloved Knights of Malta.
